Intimate apparel

   During the nineteenth century, women traditionally wore a chemise, which was a straight unadorned linen garment, as their sleeping apparel. Hence the origin of intimate apparel or lingerie derived from the French word linge, or linen. By 1830, empire period sleep gowns adorned with lace began the transition into sleeping and personal apparel that was visually pleasing. In this way, women had the ability to remain privately feminine while outwardly exerting their independence. In the 1920s, Theodore Baer combined a chemise with panties and created the teddy. It was also the beginning of drastic transformations of bras, which initiated their progress into using boning and cup sizes. Additionally, intimate apparel as a market segment began to take shape; women's nightgowns were created and women of means were able to purchase intimate apparel made of silk and fine European laces. The development of synthetic silk-like fabrics, such as nylon, opened the door for the creation of intimate apparel for the mass market. With the influence of men's pajamas, the 1930s saw the creation of women's pajamas. The 1950s also brought an explosion of synthetic peignoir sets (nightgowns with matching cover-ups) and babydoll pajamas, the desired bedroom attire of the 1950s housewife of moderate means while her wealthy counterpart worn peignoir sets and babydolls of silk.

   The 1960s and the birth of the miniskirt and pantyhose together with the women's liberation movement created radical changes in the intimate apparel industry. Wearing or not wearing a bra became a focal point of demonstrated feminine independence. Girdles were out. Sleepshirts replaced peignoir sets and character and sports-licensed products were introduced at the high and moderate markets in both juniors and misses. Armani in the 1980s can be credited with moving the market toward the acceptance and incorporation of femininity while maintaining the strength of masculinity in women's business and personal dress. The Victoria's Secret catalog became an industry icon and women embraced their ultra-feminine undergarments peeking through their power suits. The 1990s witnessed the Wonderbra rage and the direct influence of intimate apparel in all areas of fashion. By the turn of the century, intimate apparel was being recognized as a powerful component of the fashion industry. Designers saw intimates as an extension of their brand and not merely as a licensing opportunity as it had been viewed in the past.